Specifications, Service and Repair of Farm and Lawn Tractors


John Deere 2305 Tractor Specs Overview

John Deere 2305 Tractor Engine

Model - Yanmar 3TNV76
Type - Diesel
Gross Horsepower - 17.9 kW (24.0 hp)
PTO Horsepower - 13.4 kW (18 hp)
Cylinders - Three
Rated Engine Speed - 3000 rpm
Operating Range - 1170 - 3170 rpm
Oil Filter - Standard Single Element
Air Cleaner - Dry Type, Two Stage

John Deere 2305 Tractor Transmission (Drivetrain)

Type - 2 Range Hydrostatic
Number of Speeds - Infinite
Mechanical Front Wheel Drive (MFWD) - Standard
MFWD Capability - All Ranges
MFWD Engagement - On The Go

Final Drive Spur Gear

Rear Axle Maximum Load - 670 kg (1477 lb)
Front Axle Maximum Load - 750 kg (1654 lb)

Electrical System

Type - 12 Volt
Battery Size 500 Cold Cranking Amps -18C
Alternator - 20 amp

Front Wheels and Tires

Standard - 18x8.5-10 R4
Optional - 18x8.5-10 R3

Rear Wheels and Tires

Standard - 26x12.00-12 R4
Optional - 26x12.00-12 R3

Fluid Capacities

Fuel Tank - 21 L (5.5 gal)
Cooling System - 3.2 L (3.4 qt)
Crankcase with Filter - 3.2 L (3.4 qt)
Transmission and Hydraulic System - 13.0 L (3.4 gal)
Front Axle - 2.5 L (2.6 qt)

Ground Speeds

Forward and Reverse - Range High 0-13.3 km/h (0-8.3 mph)
Forward and Reverse - Range Low 0-6.6 km/h (0-4.1 mph)

JD 2305 Tractor Dimensions

Wheelbase - 1450 mm (57.1 in.)
Overall Length with 3-point Hitch - 2605 mm (102.6 in.)
Overall Width (Miinimum) - 1140 mm (44.9 in.)
Front (Only Wide Position Recommended) - 1005 mm (39.6 in.)
Rear - 853 mm (33.6 in.)
Ground Clearance - Front Axle 195 mm (7.7 in.)
Weight - Machine equipped with a ROPS, 3-point hitch, standard R4 tires and all fluids. - 846 kg

3-Point Hitch

Type - Limited Category 1
Lift Capacity-61 cm (24 in.) behind link arms - 309 kg (681 lb)
Lift Capacity-at link link ends - 650 kg (1433 lb)

Checking John Deere 2305 Tractor PTO Driveshaft

- Install driveshaft on implement.

- Install implement on tractor. Do not install driveshaft on tractor.

- Check the fully shortened position of the driveshaft.

- Push the driveshaft in to its shortest length by hand.

- Check the area where the outer tube shield meets the shield bell.

- If the outer tube shield does not touch the shield bell, make a mark on the inner tube where the outer tube shield ends.

- Install driveshaft on JD 2305 Tractor and adjust the center link to level the implement for operating while in lowered position.

- Have an observer stand a safe distance from the implement to tell you when the driveshaft is fully shortened.

- Set the John Deere 2305 Tractor at low idle and raise the implement, stopping when the observer sees the outer tube shield reach the mark on the inner tube, or the outer tube shield touches the shield bell.

- If the implement is fully raised, and the driveshaft does not reach the fully shortened position, with either the outer tube shield at the mark or touching the bell shield, the driveshaft is ready for operation.

- If the driveshaft reaches the fully shortened position before the implement is fully raised, the driveshaft will need to be shortened.

Shortening the PTO Driveshaft:

- Remove 25mm (1 in.) from the ends of the driveshaft and the ends of the shield tubes.

- Check driveshaft length again, and shorten further if needed.

John Deere 2305 Tractor Rear and Mid Power-Take-Off (PTO)

PTO operation for this machine is not intended to be used when the operator is off the seat. The safety interlock system will stop the engine and all implements if the PTO is operating and the operator leaves the seat.

Engaging the JD 2305 Tractor PTO:

- Move the 2-speed range lever to the N position.

- If the operator leaves the seat with the engine running and the PTO engaged, the safety interlock system will stop the engine and all implements.

- Start the engine.

- Set engine speed to 1500 rpm or less.

- Move the PTO control lever to desired operating position: Mid PTO only/Mid and Rear PTO/Rear PTO only.

- Pull PTO switch knob up to the engaged/on position.

- Adjust the hand throttle lever forward to the desired speed for the implement used.

- Mid PTO speed will be 2100 rpm at the 540 PTO marker on the tachometer.

- If PTO shuts off during use, turn off engine and push down to turn off PTO switch. Lock park brake. Allow engine to cool. Check coolant level and add coolant if necessary. Clean debris away from radiator cooling fins. Sit on seat, and start engine. Pull PTO up to on position.

John Deere 2305 Tractor Rear Hitch

The rear hitch plate provides a single fixed mounting position for towing.

Certain heavy equipment such as a loaded single-axle trailer can place excessive strain on the hitch. Strain is greatly increased by speed and rough ground.

Do not exceed 255 kg (562 lb) maximum static vertical load on the rear hitch at position.

Locking Out Dual SCV Regen Function

It may be necessary to prevent the dual SCV lever from moving to the full right or “regen” position when operating some implements.

- Remove right rear wheel.

- Move joystick back and forth to access locking pin on L-shaped bracket on the front of the selective control valve (SCV).

- Remove locking pin, and L-shaped bracket from pins.

- Flip L-shaped bracket (A) inverted, and install back onto pins, as shown.

- Install locking pin.- Install wheel. Tighten wheel bolts to 88 Nm (65 lb-ft).

Attach Loader on John Deere 2305 Tractor

Attach Loader Operation:

- Align masts with mounting frames.

- Engage tractor parking brake and place transmission in PARK.

- Shut off tractor engine and remove key.

- Move control lever(s) back and forth and side-to-side (if applicable) several times.

- Make sure hoses are routed through hose guide, as shown.

- Hose connections are identified by matching the color-coded cap on the hose end with the same color-coded plug on the control valve coupler.

- John Deere 2305 Tractor: Route hoses above mounting frames and through hose guide.

- Connect hoses using color-coded dust caps matching numbers and colors on decal by coupler plate.

- It may be necessary to drive tractor forward slowly to keep masts/frames in line while performing the following procedures.

- Be sure bushing on mounting frame is aligned with notch in masts.

- Start tractor engine.

- Release parking brake and/or place John Deere 2305 Tractor transmission in NEUTRAL.

- Make sure masts are fully seated on mounting frames.

- Slowly retract lift cylinders. Masts will lower onto mounting frames and parking stand will raise up below weight bracket.

- Dump bucket 10—20° and retract lift cylinders until loader masts move back and latches lock over mounting frame bushings.

- Extend lift cylinders and lift bucket from ground to ensure loader is properly mounted.

- Add appropriate ballast.

- Engage tractor parking brake and/or place transmission in PARK.

- Shut off tractor engine and remove key.

I have a 2305 the currently will drive forward and reverse but the MMM lift 3 point and PTO will not work. Does anyone here have an idea what it could be? Just pulled the suction strainer out and found 6 ball bearings. Tractor will drive but the 3point and the mower lift along with the PTO will not work. 3 point hitch will not even move.
Absolutely nothing happens engine does the not bog when PTO is engaged.

The hydraulic system consists of two circuits powered by the same pump through a divider valve. The divider valve directs 45% of the hydraulic oil to the steering circuit, which also supplies oil to the PTO clutch, and charge pressure to the hydrostatic pump. The remaining 55% of the hydraulic oil powers the implement circuit, which powers the rockshaft and the SCV valves. With that now known we can more effectively find the source of your problem. Even though you can drive, it can still be your main pump. The main pump DOES provide charge pressure to the hydro pump BUT it is possible for it to drive. I don’t know how far for how long but it will sometimes drive. An easy check. With all lines disconnected from the scv quick connects, move the joystick. If it doesn’t bog for a
second before going into relief, then you have no pressure from your pump.

I have a 2305 John Deere with 145-hrs on it. Love this tractor and haven’t had one issue with it. Lately, the trottle won't stay at the set RPM I put it at without falling down. It will stay at full throttle but won't stay at less than that, it drops down to idle. Have any of you had this problem? If so what do I need to do to make it like it was new again? I suppose over time the trottle has just become less and less "tight" per say due to up and down use. I see the two nuts and will adjust them. Do you know what they do? The cable runs through a braked with a nut on each side then through the throttle assembly. Do the nuts just keep tension on the cable? If so the cable does have a small amount of play when it is in the idle position, say a1/4" or so before it engages the RPM's.

I have the same issue, mostly when I'm doing stuff not at full throttle, but today the vibrations of the tiller kept pushing the RPM's down had to keep pushing the throttle back up. My 2305 throttle was too stiff, so I raised gauge panel and partially removed right side cowling that surrounds throttle lever shaft enough to get wrenches on tension nut.

I have a JD 2305 with a 62" mmm. Problem is when mowing over uneven terrain and the deck floats up on the left side, the PTO shaft at the gear box grinds against the brake linkage pin inside the frame rail. could it just be out of alignment or worn pivot points?

I too have a 2305 with an older serial number that would qualify IF I was using the 62C deck. In checking the solution number with my dealer, I'm told that the problem only surfaced with the 62C deck, not the 54C. For those folks like myself who have the 54C deck, this should not be a problem. In fact, in checking my linkage, I find that all is OK.

I got my tractor last weekend and first few hours out, got the inevitable stick in the fan thing happening. Looks like you can get the drive shaft off if you remove the snap-ring and then drive out the roll pins. Has anyone ever attempted this? Being that it's newer, I'm hoping rust won't garner lots of 4-letter-speak in the garage. For those that have replaced the fan, easiest and most effective method? Thoughts on cutting the blade in two and then putting back on the drive shaft? I will definitely replace by spring and will have some sort of guard on it by then. I've heard from people about folks with years on their 2305 running a brush mower before having this happen. My dumb luck it happened right away.

There is a bushing, or bar that holds the mid mount mower that needs to be removed. The transmission shaft is now easily accessible. Dave then took the drive shaft apart at the knuckle joint closest to the fan. He removed c-clamps, punched out two bushings and the shaft dropped down and he was able to access the fan bolts and he replaced the fan.

I have been having problems with my mower lift mechanism on my 2305 JD. I have the standard mechanical lift that operates using the 3pt hitch arms. The problem I have is that the lift arm barely contacts the mower lift bracket. Half the time it slips off and doesn’t lift it. I have the factory rod in place in the 3pt hitch but it still doesn’t work. Has anyone else had this problem? I was worried my lift bracket is bent but it doesn’t look like it is.

The problem is simple. The 3PH arm that is supposed to do the lifting is either loose or is positioned too far to the right. I think you mentioned that you have the rod (which separates the 2 arms of the 3-pt hitch)? If so, then with the deck lowered - so there is no pressure on the 3ph arms, try moving the 2 connected 3ph arms left and right, and see if you have any slack. You should have next to no-slack. If you can move the arms around, you need to tighten the 2 turnbuckles on the 3ph arms, to tighten them up. It is also possible that the rod you have that separates the 2 arms, is too short - thus keeping the arms "snug" but too close together. Try pulling the pins out of the rod, to separate the 2 arms, and see if you can move the left-hand-side 3ph arm any further to the left than the position it normally is in with the rod in place. Bottom line - the 3ph arm on the left side, should be as far left as it can go. The 2 turnbuckles and the rod is what accomplishes that.