Specifications, Service and Repair of Farm and Lawn Tractors

Kubota B2320 Tractor Specs

Classification - Compact Utility tractor

Kubota B2320 Engine Specifications

Engine Make - Kubota
Engine Model - D1005
Number of Cylinders - 3
Advertised Engine Power, Rated, hp (kW) - 23.0 (17.2)
Maximum Engine Power, hp (kW) - Same as Advertised
Rated Engine Speed, rpm - 2800
Power Boost, hp (kW) - No boost
Fuel Tank capacity, gal (L) - 6.6 (25)
Diesel Exhaust Fluid (DEF) tank capacity, gal (L) - No DEF
Displacement, cu in (L) - 61.1 (1.001)
Engine Bore, in (mm) - 2.99 (76.0)
Engine Stroke, in (mm) - 2.90 (73.6)
Block Design, Replaceable Liners - Parent bore block
Aspiration, Turbocharged or Naturally Aspirated - Natural
Fuel System Description - In-Line Pump System
Fuel System Control, Electronic or Mechanical - Mechanical
Fuel Injection to combustion chamber - Indirect
Emission Level, US EPA Tier - Tier 4 Interim
Exhaust Pipe, Vertical stack or Horizontal - Horizontal
Cooling System Fan Drive Type - Belt
Electrical System Rating, Volts - 12
Alternator Rating, Amps - 40

Basic Transmission Configuration

Manufacturer's Description - Gear Drive
Transmission Type - Gear
Number of Forward / Reverse Speeds - 9F / 3R
Maximum Speed Forward, mph (kph) - 11.2 (18.0)
Creeper Range Available - No
Shuttle (Forward-Reverse) Available - No

Kubota B2320HSD Optional Transmission 1

Manufacturer's Description - Hydrostatic
Transmission Type - Gear
Number of Forward / Reverse Speeds - Infinite / 3 Ranges

Kubota B-2320 Tractor PTO

PTO Horsepower, Basic / Optional Transmission, hp (kW) - 18.0 (13.4) / 17.0 (12.7)
Power Take Off Speeds, rpm - 540 / 960
PTO operational Type (Independent; Live; Continuous) - Independent

Wheels Configuration

Drive Wheels - 4WD
Steering Configuration - Front Steer

Rear Axle Assembly

Final Drive Location and Description - Spur gear
Axle Output End, Flange or Bar - Flange
Axle Bar Diameter, in (mm) - No bar axle

Front Axle

Suspended Front Axle Available - No

Brakes

Service Brake Type - Wet disc

Kubota B2320 Hydraulic System

Hydraulic System Type - Open Center
Main Hydraulic Pump Type - Gear
Standard Pump Flow, gpm (Lpm) - 8.3 (31.4)
Optional Pump Flow, gpm (Lpm) - No option
Number of Standard Remote Valves - 1

Kubota B-2320 Tractor3-Point Hitch Features

3-Point Hitch Category - Category 1
Optional Hitch Category - No option
Draft Sensing or Lift Control - Upper link mechanical
Draft Link Ends Adjustable - Yes

3-Point Hitch Lift Capacity

Standard Lift Capacity 24 Inches behind pin, lb (kg) - 1,058 (480)
Optional Lift Capacity 24 Inches behind pin, lb (kg) - No Option
Standard Lift Capacity at lift pin, lb (kg) - 1,356 (615)
Optional Lift Capacity at lift pin, lb (kg) - No Option

Drawbar

Drawbar Description - Adjustable

Wheelbase

Wheelbase, MFD/4WD, in (mm) - 61.5 (1563)

Kubota B2320HSD Dimensions

Length, MFD/4WD, incl. Hitch/Drawbar, in (mm) - 93.9 (2385)
Overall Width, with standard wheels or tracks, in(Mm) - 45.1 (1145)

Weight (w/Tires)

Weight, MFD/4WD w/ROPS, lb (kg) - 1,433 (650)

Tire Size

Front Tire Size Width, MFD/4WD - 6.0-12
Rear Tire Size Width - 9.5-16

I am looking for a little guidance on a problem with my Kubota B2320. The tractor is a 2010 model with only 79 hours. It has never been abused in any way, has always been stored indoors, and still appears absolutely new. After mowing yesterday the tractor was shut down as normal. A couple hours later when I attempted to start it, it would not crank. When the key is turned to the run position, the lights and dash all come on as usual but when the key is turned a little further to the start position the starter simply doesn't turn. It makes no noise or clicks, it is just silent. The first thing I checked was the PTO lever but no problem there. When engaging and disengaging the PTO you can hear a "click" as if a relay is functioning so I have ruled that out. I checked all of the seat switches with a test light and still found no problems. I also checked the fuses, again no problems. I was able to start the tractor by jumping the starter so the starter is also fine. I found a small box underneath the dash that appears to be some type of "brain" that has several wires coming in and out. I took the cover off and there is a circuit board that appears to be fine, no burnt or dark areas. I removed the key switch and tested all of the workings and the wire that triggers the starter does produce power when the key is turned. I cannot find a single thing wrong with this tractor and just don't know where to look next.

Just had this happen on my 2620, there is a small "module" behind the dash that all the safety switches attach to. All the switches were good on mine along s with the wiring but no power to starter. Part wasn't in stock so it's bypassed on mine right now; part is about 150, sounds like you have a similar problem. Module part is 6c190-55513, also appears to control the charging and fuel solenoid, however I lost the starter first then the fuel solenoid stopped working while I was checking circuits.

I've had my MMM in the transport position for the last few weeks. No problem getting it raised so I could put the pins in. Cutting height adjustment knob is in max height for this. I removed the pins to lower it prior to removal and couldn't get the blasted thing to go down. And I can't get the cutting height adjustment knob to turn at all. The whole works just seems frozen. I bumped the RPM up to around 2K thinking that might help, no luck. I'm still new at R&R'ing the attachments so probably am overlooking something. R&R'ing the FEL, thankfully, has been smooth as can be, but this dang MMM has me fooled.

I've not had the pleasure of working w/one of these new B series yet but, since the MMM and associated assembly is very similar to the BX series I have a few suggestions you can try. Those depth setting adjusters can get frozen when not used much and at other times the MMM can settle on the adjusters step and won't allow to turn.
1st thing to try is to raise the 3ph to the max position and while holding it there try to turn the knob. I have to so this w/my BX a few times after I've locked it the Top position for extended times. If the knob doesn't turn you may need to give it a good shower of PB Blaster or similar. Spray both down from the top and up from the bottom, giving everything associated w/that knob and assembly a good shower then try step one again. Once the MMM is lowered you'll want to continue to spray and turn that knob until it moves somewhat easily.

It’s Problem with my Kubota B2320 HSD. I'll be running fine and then all of the sudden, it will start to lose RPMs and almost die. If I back off the throttle and give it a second, it will usually recover. If it dies completely, I sometimes take a couple of tries to restart it. When it does restart, it kind of chokes a little bit until it gets going. When this happens, I usually notice all of the fuel getting sucked up out of the filter bowl. I've recently changed the air and fuel filters, even though the new air filter seems a little dirty already, but I went three years on the factory filter. I replaced all parts with Kubota filters from Messicks. Do I have something in my fuel tank that is clogging the flow? Or do I have other issues? Most days it runs fine all day long. But every once in a while, it acts up like this. It's just concerning me that this is the harbinger of bad things to come unless it is resolved. Does anybody have the procedure for removing the fuel tank for cleaning since it is impossible to get a good look into it through the filler opening?

Well, that doesn't seem to be it. Spent some time last night cutting and still experienced random stalls. It seems to happen randomly. When it does, the fuel filter bowl level starts to drop below the actual filter. If I drop the rpms and wait for the bowl to refill, then it seems to continue to run. If I shut it off and wait, I have difficulty starting, but then it seems to run fine. Finished up after about 4 stalls without a problem. I don't know, I must have something restricting fuel flow from the tank. May be some sediment in the tank or a clogged line. But you would think, once it is stationary, the sediment would not just suddenly unblock the pickup in the tank.

First tractor, got a LandPride RTR1050 with a Kubota 2320. What position does the lowering 3-point hitch shifter need to be in when tilling? In the middle neutral position or in the lower position? There is a locking position for lower and raise. So when having the lever in the down position, no downward pressure is being applied, it’s just opening the valve to let it fall? I adjust the tilling depth by the skids on its sides.

Yes, to both. Gravity does the work. And what said about the clutch. They need to be set for the specific tractor and tiller combo, to protect your driveline. Easy to do. I'm assuming this is your first power implement, so I'll describe how. BTW, I also have that tiller, and LOVE it. The clutch generally fits on the implement end of the driveshaft, and consists of the splined driving end, which has a U-joint and is either part of, or fastens to, the driveshaft. The second part is the clutch disc/ driven end, which has a friction liner on both sides of a plate, and a splined fitting which fastens to the input shaft of the implement. Then there is the clutch plate and tension springs and bolts (usually 8 of them). The clutch disc fits between the driving end and the clutch plate. The bolts connect the plate to the driving end and the springs put pressure on the disc. These bolts need to be adjusted so they will allow the disc to slip if sufficient load is placed on the driveshaft. "Sufficient" is a relative term. You don't want the clutch to slip under normal use, but if you hit a big rock, or root, or something gets jammed or wedged between the tiller tines and tiller housing, you want the clutch to slip so it doesn't rip all the teeth off your PTO gears. Loosen all the bolts until spring tension is released from the disc (you should be able to slip the clutch by hand by turning the driveshaft manually, disconnected from the tractor). Now, snug the bolts evenly, starting with a half turn each, until the clutch is just too difficult to turn by hand. Now reattach the driveshaft to the PTO output and get out in the garden in some clean, (no rocks/roots) untilled dirt. Start up, engage the tiller, and lower it to the ground; you should see it stop as soon as it hits ground, but the driveshaft is still turning. Immediately raise the tiller, and shut the PTO off, and turn off the engine for safety. Equally tighten the tension bolts a half turn and repeat starting up, engaging the tiller, and lowering it into the dirt. If the tiller continues to spin, try moving forward and see how well it tears up the ground without slipping. If it works well without slipping, you should be set pretty well. Try in harder ground to see if it slips then. You want the clutch set just tight enough to turn your "regular" ground without slipping. Keep the clutch clean; don't allow grease or oil between the pressure plate or disc surfaces. If you let the tiller sit in the weather, or for an extended period of time, you'll want to loosen up the assembly, clean the friction surfaces, and reset the tension.

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